Yesterday I decided to escape the hurly-burly for a little while and wander off on my own – something I do from time to time. I like to get off the beaten track. Yesterday was a new experience for me though, as I went out with the objective of tracking down and finding wild tortoises in the scrub on a nearby hill.
Now, since tortoises are not native to Bedfordshire (not even the 11th Duke of Bedford, who was responsible for introducing so many alien species, managed to introduce tortoises) it’s reasonable to assume that I’m not at home. In fact, we’re on holiday in Turkey this week.
I’m no expert on tortoises, but I came across one a few years ago in a similar environment and at the back of my mind I’ve wanted to find another. When we arrived at our hotel I noticed the undeveloped countryside in the vicinity and decided to have a look. The land here in Turkey is arid and dry and the ecosystem is characterised by water saving species. The vegetation is scrubby and thorny, designed to resist being eaten by the few animal and bird species. Tortoises fit in well here, being able to conserve water and go without drinking for long periods, getting most of the fluid they need from the plants on which they feed.
Anyhow, I decided to take a walk and look for tortoises. I’m used to having odd ideas like this. Most of the time they come to nothing. Sometimes, just sometimes, they’re successful. After a couple of hours of hopping over limestone outcrops and thrashing through thorn bushes I’d managed to find a couple of splendid tortoises. They’re funny things to see in the wild – I think I’m used to seeing them as pets and they seem somehow out of place in the countryside. I was jolly pleased to have found them because they’re a new species that I deliberately set out to find (based on a minimum of knowledge) and I actually managed to do so.
The only thing I can remember about wild tortoises is that you shouldn’t pick them up. Apparently they’re quite sensitive to stress. One of their defensive behaviours is to urinate when attacked. Not only does this mean you could get covered in tortoise pee, it means that the tortoise loses vital liquid that it may have difficulty replacing. So, if you come across a tortoise in the wild please leave it where it is, unless it is in obvious danger (like in the middle of the road or something).
This post is nothing to do with badgers, I’m afraid, but it was an interesting diversion nonetheless. As I always say, wherever you are, there’s always wildlife to be found…
Tales from the Wood - The Diary of a Badger Watching Man 
I remember doing something similar some years ago – Nr Fethiye – there was a knocking noise all night that kept us awake, the hotel manager did not know what was happening so we decided the following evening to investigate ourselves and we found 2 tortoises being rather amorous – hence the knocking noise and then found another two – obviously the mating season!! To see these lovely animals in the wild is a real privilege, a lovely memory now
Lovely photographs. They are the most enticing of creatures. In all the years I have been going to Turkey have only come across them once. Worried that they might haven been affected by the mass building that goes on along the south east coast.
Hi Ergny6
Mating tortoises – what a great experience! I’m sure there’s a joke there somewhere (How do tortoises make love? Very carefully! No, that’s not it…)
I agree though that they are wonderful animals to see in the wild. I’m only used to seeing them as pets, so seeing them out in the countryside seems odd. It’s a bit like when I see blue tits in the middle of woods, and I think ‘hang on, shouldn’t you be in a garden somewhere?’ I guess we get used to seeing some creatures in particular settings.
All the best
BWM
Hi Harriet
Yes, they are wonderful creatures. I’d only ever seen one tortoise before in Turkey (in fact, this was the only wild one I’d ever seen anywhere) but I was so impressed I made a point of looking for them this time. I must confess, the first couple were difficult to find. There were no paths on the wild hillsides so I don’t think many people go there. I came back to the hotel covered in scratches with my trousers ripped open (that thorny scrub was really thorny). There could have been whole legions of tortoises out there and I wouldn’t have seen them.
I hope the building doesn’t affect them too badly. I hope there’ll still be wild places where they can live in peace. Given that tortoises can live to well over 100 years old, I wonder what they make of all the progress they’ve seen?
All the best
BWM
I wouldn’t worry too much, Turkey’s got loads of wild places once you get away from the coastal resorts. I’m in Ankara (working) and saw a tortoise today on a hillside next to a reservoir there. You can’t get much further from the coast than that! Fortunately the locals think it’s bad luck to harm them, so I guess they’ll survive for a goodly while yet.